Rectangle Embroidery Hoops — 5 Sizes up to 27 x 39 cm, Singles & Set

Hold the 27 × 39 cm one and it is immediately obvious what it is for. This is a rectangle embroidery hoop wide enough to take a line of lettering, a quote, a landscape, a row of houses — the designs that a circle simply cuts the ends off. The frame is slim moulded plastic with a deep inner lip, the corners are rolled rather than sharp, and in a soft single colour it reads as a picture frame long before it reads as a tool.

Five sizes. The 9 × 13 cm is small enough to hold in one hand and rounded enough to pass for a soft oval; the 27 × 39 cm is the largest frame we stock in any shape. Between them sits the everyday 18 × 26 cm that most quote and sampler patterns are drawn to.

They flex, too — genuinely. Bend one right over in your hand and it springs straight back, which is the short answer to what happens when it lives in a project bag.

Product Details

• Five sizes — 9 × 13 cm, 11 × 16 cm, 18 × 26 cm, 23 × 33 cm and 27 × 39 cm
• Approximately 3.5" × 5.1" up to 10.6" × 15.4"
• Material: moulded plastic frame with a metal tension screw
• Shape: rolled rectangle — rounded corners throughout. The two smallest read as soft ovals; the three largest as rounded rectangles
• The size is embossed into the frame, so hoops stay identifiable once they are mixed together
• Colours arrive as shown in the photographs, one shade per size
• Sold as a single size, or as All 5 Sizes for the complete set

Size Guide

Why the Shape Matters

Lettering is the clearest case. A line of text is long and shallow; a circle is neither. Hoop a quote in a round frame and you either shrink the text to fit the width or re-hoop halfway through the sentence. A rectangle holds the whole line at once, with the margins even top and bottom.

The same is true of landscapes, borders, house rows, bookmarks and anything worked to a long chart. You are not fighting the frame for the last two words.

About the Corners

The standard objection to any non-round hoop is that tension concentrates at the corners and goes slack along the straight runs. It is a fair objection to a sharp-cornered frame. These are moulded with a generous radius — a rolled rectangle rather than a true rectangle — so the fabric turns each corner instead of folding over it and the tension carries round the frame.

It is also why the two smallest sizes look almost oval: at that scale the radius is a large part of the frame.

How to Hoop Your Fabric

1. Loosen the screw and lift the outer frame away.
2. Lay the fabric over the inner frame, with the line of the design running parallel to the long sides.
3. Press the outer frame down over the top.
4. Draw the fabric taut along the two long sides first, then the short ones, then ease the corners.
5. Hand-tighten the screw, tug gently at four points, and tighten once more.

Who These Are For

• Lettering, quotes, names and monograms on a single line
• Landscape and scenic designs that a circle would crop
• Long samplers, borders and band work
• Punch needle pieces worked to a rectangular chart
• Anyone who wants a large working area — 27 × 39 cm is the biggest frame we stock
• Classrooms and craft groups — nothing to splinter or warp

How These Compare

Against a round hoop. A circle is the right tool for a circular motif and gives marginally more even tension on plain fabric. For anything longer than it is tall, it wastes the ends. Most stitchers keep both and pick by the design.

Against a scroll frame. A scroll frame is the better answer for a very long band, because you roll the fabric rather than re-hooping over finished stitches. It is also bulkier, slower, and the piece does not stay in it. These set up in seconds and double as the frame.

Against a wooden rectangular hoop. Wood looks warmer on a wall. Plastic holds stiff aida better, flexes instead of cracking, and has no corner joints to split — which is exactly where a wooden rectangular frame gives way.

Materials & Care

Moulded plastic frame with a metal tension screw. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. It will not rust, stain white linen or aida, or mind a humid room. The flex is real and it is a feature: the frame bends well past square in the hand and returns, so a knock or a crowded bag does not crack it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are there rectangular embroidery hoops?
Yes, though they are far less common than round ones. These come in five sizes, from 9 × 13 cm up to 27 × 39 cm, all with rolled corners.

Are square embroidery hoops good?
For grid-based work, yes. We stock a separate square range in five sizes for samplers, alphabets and blackwork. The rectangular range here is the one to pick when the design is longer than it is tall.

Is a plastic or wooden embroidery hoop better?
For holding tension on aida, plastic generally wins — the moulded lip grips where a smooth wooden surface lets stiff fabric creep. Wood wins on appearance if the hoop is staying on the wall. On a rectangular frame specifically, plastic has no corner joints to split.

What is the largest one?
27 × 39 cm, roughly 10.6 × 15.4 in. It is the largest hoop we stock in any shape, round included.

Are these magnetic?
No. They close with a hand-tightened screw — so no magnet near a computerised machine, and no trouble with fine needles.

Will these fit an embroidery machine?
No. These are hand-embroidery hoops. Machine hoops are made to a specific bracket for a specific machine.

Do the colours arrive as shown?
Yes — one shade per size, as photographed.

Pick the size that fits the design, instead of squeezing the design into a circle.